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Larcher and Zangerl make a rare free ascent of El Cap‘s Magic Mushroom (5.14a) at the end of another busy season for the Big Stone

Barbara Zangerl on Pitch 22, Magic Mushroom (5.14a). [Photo] Francois Lebeau Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl made a rare free ascent of Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a, 2,900‘) on El Capitan, topping out on December 10 after an 11-day push from the ground. With nine pitches of 5.12, nine pitches of 5.13 and two pitches of 5.14a, and much of the difficulty concentrated on the top half of the route, Magic Mushroom is considered one of the

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Women‘s expedition explores new routes in India‘s Zanskar Range

From left: Savannah Cummins, Anna Pfaff and Lindsay Fixmer. [Photo] Lindsay Fixmer Starting near the end of August, Savannah Cummins, Lindsay Fixmer and I spent 24 days climbing and exploring the remote Raru Mountains in northern India‘s Zanskar Range. We encountered a plethora of unclimbed 5000- to 6000-meter peaks, rock walls and spires. During our time spent on the Tetleh Glacier we were able to summit the previously unclimbed roc

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French team completes new route on Nuptse‘s south face

The south face of Nuptse with the new route marked by the thin red line. [Photo] Courtesy of Helias Millerioux, Benjamin Guigonnet, Frederic Degoulet On October 14-21, Helias Millerioux, Benjamin Guigonnet, Frederic Degoulet completed a risky new route on Nuptse‘s south face in mostly alpine style. They fixed one pitch of WI6--which all three free climbed at the end of Day 1 while conditions were ideal--and then they used one more fi

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Trump heading to Utah and is expected to reduce size of two national monuments

President Donald Trump is scheduled to visit Salt Lake City, Utah, on Monday, Dec. 4, and he is expected to announce plans to slash the size of Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments. The Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance is organizing rallies at the Utah State Capitol on Saturday, December 2, and Monday, December 4, to oppose the reductions. According to leaked documents obtained by The Washington Post and Outside

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Good conditions result in new winter ascents of Slesse‘s Navigator Wall and satellite peaks

The red line shows the route taken by Marc-Andre Leclerc and Tom Livingstone on January 3 for the first winter ascent of the Navigator Wall on Canada‘s Mt. Slesse. They estimated the difficulties to be M7+ R or "Scottish VIII or IX," according to Livingstone. [Photo] Marc-Andre Leclerc Conditions in the Canadian Cascades aligned at the start of the New Year and Marc-Andre Leclerc realized one of his long-standing goals with British c

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National legal fight begins after Trump alters Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante Monuments by more than half

Jacob‘s Chair and Long Canyon are no longer included in the two smaller national monuments that replaced the former Bears Ears Monument. [Photo] Tim Peterson, courtesy of Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition On December 4, President Donald Trump signed two proclamations to shrink Utah‘s Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments by more than half of their current acreage. Changes to other monuments are expected to

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American Alpine Club announces 2018 Climbing Awards, Annual Benefit Dinner

The 2018 recipients of the American Alpine Club Climbing Awards. [Image] Courtesy of the American Alpine Club The American Alpine Club has announced the recipients of its 2018 Climbing Awards, given annually to distinguish individuals for their service, leadership and accomplishments. This year‘s honorees include John Roskelley, Alex Honnold, Ellen Lapham, Margo Hayes and Sally Jewell. The awards will be presented at the AAC&lsqu

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Application period opens for inaugural Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award

Kyle Dempster soloed up to 6000 meters on Vigne peak to "gain a better look around" at the huge peaks surrounding him on the Baltoro Glacier in 2014. He‘d traveled there to attempt Gasherbrum IV‘s Shining Wall with Urban Novak, but they called off their expedition after learning that some Slovenian friends of Novak‘s were missing, and Novak felt the need to return home to be with the surviving friends and family. Dempster co

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Registration open for American Alpine Club‘s Annual Benefit Dinner

Tickets are now available for the American Alpine Club‘s annual benefit dinner weekend on February 23-24 in Boston, Massachusetts. This year‘s event will honor the 40th anniversary of the first American ascent of K2 (8611m), when Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt summited on September 6, 1978, followed on September 7 by their teammates Rick Ridgeway and John Roskelley. Fred Beckey at a previous American Alpine Club event. Be

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Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau establish The T&A Show on Rungofarka

[The following is a report by Alan Rousseau about an expedition funded in part by a 2017 Mugs Stump Award. The award, a collaborative effort of Alpinist, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., Mountain Gear, Patagonia, Inc., and W.L. Gore Associates, Inc., was created in 1993 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America‘s most visionary climbers. In the 24 years since its inception, the Mugs Stump Award has provided over 400,000 in grants to

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