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Hazel Findlay sends a new stemming testpiece in Squamish at 5.13d R

Hazel Findlay leads Tainted Love, aka Northern Soul (5.13d R), in Squamish, British Columbia. [Photo] Jonny Baker Hazel Findlay recently made the first ascent of the hard trad route Tainted Love, aka Northern Soul (5.13d R)--a thin and powerful stem-corner that is accessed from the top of the Chief in Squamish, British Columbia. She said she was introduced to the route by Neil Dyer, who had already spent time trying the route, and that

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Three parties establish three new routes on Xanadu‘s west face

The west face of Xanadu. [Photo] Engberg, Bain, Boning and Braasch collection The central west face of Xanadu in Alaska‘s Arrigetch Peaks--sometimes referred to as the Half Dome of the Arctic--was untouched until this year when three parties established three routes in July and August. Jon Krakauer and Bill Bullard made the first ascent of the peak by climbing the lower west face to the southern arete (5.7) in 1974. For many years af

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DiGiulian, Marin make second free ascent of Mora Mora (5.14b, 700m) in Madagascar

[Photo] Francois Lebeau/Red Bull Content Pool Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin recently made the second free ascent of Mora Mora (8c or 5.14b, 700m) in Madagascar, which was first freed by Adam Ondra in 2010. Spanish climbers Francisco Blanco and Toti Vales established the 12-pitch, bolt-protected climb ground up over six days in 1999, free climbing all except the crux Pitch 7. Ondra then freed the entire route in October 2010, rating the

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Canadians free climb Chacraraju‘s east face headwall with ‘The Devil‘s Reach Around‘

Chacraraju Este‘s east face with The Devil‘s Reach Around (M6 5.10, 90) marked in red. [Photo] Quentin Lindfield Roberts Canadian climbers Alik Berg and Quentin Lindfield Roberts completed a new route on the east face of Chacraraju Este (6001m) in Peru in mid-July. The Devil‘s Reach Around (M6 5.10, 90) is the first route on the face to be completed without aid, and the two men did it in just two days, with part of that t

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Alpinist Magazine announces Alpinist Podcast season 1: The Voices Behind the Words

Alpinist Associate Editor and Podcast Host Paula Wright in the sound booth. [Photo] Alpinist collection Jeffersonville, VT August 21, 2017--In collaboration with Dispatch Radio, Height of Land Publications is pleased to announce the Alpinist podcast, a series of episodes that take the stories Alpinist readers love to a new medium. Each season, the Alpinist podcast delivers fresh interviews and untold stories, humorous adventure tales and

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Interior Secretary‘s review recommends shrinking at least four national monuments including Bears Ears

This panorama from the top of Bridger Jack Butte shows part of Indian Creek‘s classic landscape that is currently protected by the 1.35-million-acre Bears Ears National Monument. Recent reports indicate that Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke has recommended President Donald Trump shrink Bears Ears and other national monuments. [Photo] Derek Franz Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke submitted his final recommendations to President Donald Trump

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Carsten von Birckhahn is remembered for his kindness, passion and vision

Carsten Von Birckhahn in Patagonia. [Photo] Martin Kroussottsi collection Carsten von Birckhahn--a respected member of the international climbing community and brand manager for Edelrid--died in a paragliding accident in northern Italy on July 15 while vacationing with his wife and kids. He was 49. Born in Brazil, Von Birckhahn lived in Germany and Switzerland before he relocated to El Chalten, Argentina. He became a prominent figure am

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Alabamans ‘Marooned at Midnight‘ for first ascent of an unclimbed wall on Baffin Island

Marooned at Midnight (VI A3 5.11 R, 17 pitches, 700m) climbs a formation the Inuit call Umiguqjuaq. [Image] Sam England and Ryan Little Two Alabamans, Ryan Little, 26, and Sam England, 30, received an American Alpine Club Live Your Dream Grant to attempt the unclimbed Chinese Wall in Baffin Island‘s famous Sam Ford Fjord this past August--but the sea ice hadn‘t broken up enough to allow boat access, as they‘d planned.

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Chilean climbers reach two Karakoram summits near Broad Peak

[Corrections are currently pending for this story. The 6200-meter peak the climbers dubbed "Mirchi" was not a first ascent. According to a 1984 edition of Iwo To Yuki, a Japanese Alpine Club publication, it was previously climbed by a Dutch team in 1983. Also, what was referred to as "Praqpa Ri South" might be considered a subsidiary point to the central summit rather than an independent summit.--Ed.] [Image] Armando Montero Three Chile

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Czech climbers realize ‘Satisfaction‘ on Gasherbrum‘s southwest face

Gasherbrum I (8080m): Satisfaction (ED+ M7 WI5+ 70, 3000m) is the second line from the left. [Image] Marek Holecek Marek Holecek has returned to the southwest face of Gasherbrum I (8080) five times since 2009 in a bid to complete a route up the middle of the face through two rockbands. After enduring multiple epics--including the death of his longtime climbing partner in 2013, and a bad case of frostbite in 2016, in addition to other close

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Interior Secretary concludes review of national monuments but details have yet to be released

The world-class climbing destination of Indian Creek, Utah, is part of Bears Ears National Monument, an area that is culturally significant for at least five Native American tribes. Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke has suggested the possibility of shrinking the monument and submitted his final recommendation to President Donald Trump today, but the details of that recommendation have yet to be released. [Photo] Derek Franz Interior Secretary

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