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Alpinist story by Nick Bullock named best ‘Mountaineering Article‘ at Banff

Alpinist contributor Nick Bullock was recently named the winner of Banff Mountain Book Awards‘ "Mountaineering Article" category for his story, "Threshold Shift," which appeared in Alpinist 57. The recognition comes with a 2,000 prize. Bullock‘s piece recounts his first ascent of the North Buttress of Nyainqentangla Southeast with Paul Ramsden in 2016, and Bullock‘s subsequent return from Tibet to England to help his

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Registration open for American Alpine Club‘s Annual Benefit Dinner

Tickets are now available for the American Alpine Club‘s annual benefit dinner weekend on February 23-24 in Boston, Massachusetts. This year‘s event will honor the 40th anniversary of the first American ascent of K2 (8611m), when Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt summited on September 6, 1978, followed on September 7 by their teammates Rick Ridgeway and John Roskelley. Fred Beckey at a previous American Alpine Club event. Be

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One killed and one injured after a series of rockfalls on El Capitan‘s Waterfall Route

A huge plume of granite dust billows at the base of Yosemite‘s El Capitan where a massive series of rockfalls occurred the afternoon of September 27. A fresh, white rock scar where the event originated can be seen to the right of the black streaks. One person was killed and another injured. [Photo] Tom Evans [This report is pending a second update after another, much bigger rockfall happened on El Capitan the afternoon of September 2

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French team completes new route on Nuptse‘s south face

The south face of Nuptse with the new route marked by the thin red line. [Photo] Courtesy of Helias Millerioux, Benjamin Guigonnet, Frederic Degoulet On October 14-21, Helias Millerioux, Benjamin Guigonnet, Frederic Degoulet completed a risky new route on Nuptse‘s south face in mostly alpine style. They fixed one pitch of WI6--which all three free climbed at the end of Day 1 while conditions were ideal--and then they used one more fi

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Alpinist contributor Nick Bullock selected as a Banff finalist

Alpinist is pleased to announce that Nick Bullock‘s feature article, "Threshold Shift," is one of the finalists for the Banff Mountain Book Competition‘s Mountaineering Article Award. Bullock‘s piece, which first appeared in Alpinist 57, recounts his first ascent of the North Buttress of Nyainqentangla Southeast with Paul Ramsden in 2016, and Bullock‘s subsequent return from Tibet to England to help his aging father. B

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Cole Taylor solos the second ascent of the North Pillar on Devils Thumb

On the North Pillar of Devils Thumb (Taalkhunaxhk‘u Shaa). [Photo] Cole Taylor COAST MOUNTAINS, ALASKA--For nearly 40 years since Bob Plumb and Dave Stuzman‘s first ascent in 1977, the North Pillar (VI 5.9, 6,000‘) of Devils Thumb (Taalkhunaxhk‘u Shaa) hadn‘t been repeated. This summer, Cole Taylor made the second ascent of the upper half of the route ("old school 5.8") in impressive style: solo and entirely s

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World renowned alpinist and climbing pioneer Fred Beckey dies at age 94

Fred Beckey in 2012. [Photo] Jerry Dodrill Fred Beckey, one of the most prolific alpinists the world has ever known, died October 30 at age 94 in Seattle, Washington, while in the caring arms of his close friend and biographer Megan Bond. Bond told Alpinist that a burial is scheduled for 1 p.m. this Saturday, November 4, at Mountain View Cemetery, just outside Leavenworth. "This is a stone‘s throw to Icicle Canyon, where he sp

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Women‘s expedition explores new routes in India‘s Zanskar Range

From left: Savannah Cummins, Anna Pfaff and Lindsay Fixmer. [Photo] Lindsay Fixmer Starting near the end of August, Savannah Cummins, Lindsay Fixmer and I spent 24 days climbing and exploring the remote Raru Mountains in northern India‘s Zanskar Range. We encountered a plethora of unclimbed 5000- to 6000-meter peaks, rock walls and spires. During our time spent on the Tetleh Glacier we were able to summit the previously unclimbed roc

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Interior Secretary‘s review recommends shrinking at least four national monuments including Bears Ears

This panorama from the top of Bridger Jack Butte shows part of Indian Creek‘s classic landscape that is currently protected by the 1.35-million-acre Bears Ears National Monument. Recent reports indicate that Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke has recommended President Donald Trump shrink Bears Ears and other national monuments. [Photo] Derek Franz Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke submitted his final recommendations to President Donald Trump

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Second, larger rockfall on El Capitan injures another person after first event resulted in one death and one injury

Peter "Pass the Pitons Pete" Zabrok took this photo of his partner Ryan Sheridan on top of Yosemite‘s El Capitan when the September 28 rockfall broke loose and sent debris flying all the way into the Merced River, which can be seen below. A man was injured when a rock crashed through the roof of his SUV. Zabrok, Sheridan and Patrick Mcredmond were climbing in the area of the wall where the rockfalls originated, and were just a few hundr

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Jesse Huey and Maury Birdwell free ‘Original Sin‘ (V 5.12+, 1,800‘) on Wyoming‘s Mt. Hooker

The north face of Mt. Hooker in Wyoming‘s Wind River Range. [Photo] Austin Siadak Located in Wyoming‘s Wind River Range, with a 15-mile approach and a 1,800-foot north face, Mt. Hooker (12,504‘) has continued to provide a full-value alpine objective ever since Royal Robbins, Richard K. McCracken and Charlie Raymond‘s first ascent of the Original Route (VI 5.10 A4) in 1964, which was also the country‘s first Gr

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