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Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg tick the first known ascent of Mt. Forbes‘ East Face

Mt. Forbes (3612m) with the East Face line (M4 WI3) climbed by Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg drawn in red. [Photo] John Scurlock The east face of Mt. Forbes (3612m) in the Canadian Rockies has presented a proud and obvious objective for generations of climbers, but it only just recently saw its first known ascent, on October 2, when Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg scampered up a line they are simply calling the East Face (M4 WI3+). The two m

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Priti and Jeff Wright complete the first ascent of K6 Central (7100m)

Priti and Jeff Wright atop K6 Central (7100m). [Photo] Priti and Jeff Wright collection Early last month, Jeff and Priti Wright, a husband-wife team from Seattle, Washington, completed the third ascent of K6 West (7040m) and the first ascent of K6 Central (7100m) on October 8 and 9, respectively, and in alpine style. They returned the way they came: back up and over K6 West. The peaks are in the Pakistan-administered side of the Karakoram

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An apology from Alpinist

After Alpinist 72 went to press, we found that reproductions we had printed of historical images from a 1970s-era magazine appeared to contain some offensive and anti-LGBTQA+ writing. As a result of lapses in communication, caused in part by struggles to adapt to a remote workflow during the pandemic, no one from our editorial staff had reviewed those images before we went to press, and we were unaware of the content of the words (which n

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Lauren Shartell becomes the second US woman to send the Lightning

Lauren Shartell refines moves on the Lightning (M12+/M13-) in the Rigid Designator Amphitheatre, Vail, Colorado, the day before she redpointed the route on November 8. She‘s now the second US woman to send the climb as well as the grade of M13-, but she suggested downgrading the route to M12+. [Photo] Courtesy of Kyle Barker On November 8, 2020, after 160 feet of climbing, Lauren Shartell of Rifle, Colorado, stuck both picks into thi

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Transcendental Linkup: Five routes up to 5.12a totaling 2,400‘ on Pikes Peak in 21 hours

Noah McKelvin and Luke Negley after pounding a birthday-cake flavored protein shake with Finger Fanger (5.10a, 500‘) looming behind them on the north face of Pikes Peak, Colorado. [Photo] McKelvin/Negley collection On August 22, Noah McKelvin (28) and Luke Negley (20) climbed five major formations on Colorado‘s Pikes Peak in a single push. On the way they racked up five routes with difficulties up to 5.12a totaling 2,400 feet o

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Two Alpinist stories are candidates for Best Mountaineering Article in the Banff Mountain Book Competition

Alpinist 67 (Autumn 2019) and Alpinist 68 (Winter 2019-20) include stories that are finalists in the category for Best Mountaineering Article at the 2020 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival. The Banff Mountain Book Competition released the long list of contenders for various categories on September 15--two stories from Alpinist magazine are being considered for Best Mountaineering Article: "Denali, A Universe," by Jan Harper-Haines, firs

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Emily Harrington becomes first woman to send El Capitan‘s Golden Gate in a day

[This story has been updated for accuracy and to include comments from Lynn Hill.] Emily Harrington leading the Golden Desert pitch (5.13a) near the top of El Capitan. [Photo] Jon Glassberg, Louder Than 11 Late on November 4, Emily Harrington climbed over the lip of El Capitan (Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La) in the dark; she‘d free climbed all 41 pitches of Golden Gate (5.13b, 3,000‘) in 21 hours, 13 minutes and 51 seconds, becoming the fo

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5Point, Banff and No Man‘s Land film festivals go virtual this October

Three film festivals are holding virtual events in the coming weeks: the 5Point Film Festival is October 14-18; Banff Mountain Film is October 31 through November 8; and No Man‘s Land is hosting a variety of virtual events throughout October into November. 5Point announced its lineup today, October 2. The website reads, "Offering five days of 55+ short films with all-star hosts guiding your festival experience. You‘ll be in

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American-Scottish team climb a new route on the Emperor Face of Yuh-hai-has-kun (Mt. Robson)

Topo of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 A0, 2000m) on the Emperor Face of Yuh-hai-has-kun (Mt. Robson). [Photo] Uisdean Hawthorn Between September 30 and October 2, climbers Ethan Berman (US) and Uisdean Hawthorn (Scotland) completed a new line on the Emperor Face of Yuh-hai-has-kun (Mt. Robson, 3954m), the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Their climb, Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 A0, 2000m), follows a distinctive gully on the

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Editors, publishers form Outdoor Media for Inclusion to amplify diverse voices in outdoor media

A group of publishers and editors who oversee consumer and B2B outdoor media titles have formed the working group Outdoor Media for Inclusion (OM4I) to provide more opportunities for journalists and contributors who are Black, Indigenous, people of color, and members of other marginalized communities. Teresa Baker, founder of the Outdoor CEO Diversity Pledge, encouraged the creation of OM4I, which initially formed in May 2020. It aims

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Climb the Hill goes virtual: Zoom panels focus on public lands and DEI

A screenshot of the Climb the Hill panel that took place on Zoom, Wednesday, September 23. The discussion focused on public lands and the environment. Normally, Climb the Hill is an in-person event that takes place annually in Washington, DC. This year was a virtual gathering because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Clockwise, from top left to right, are professional climber Alex Honnold, gym owner Abby Dione, pro climber Tommy Caldwell, Congressman

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